Salwar kameez: stitched, semi-stitched or unstitched?

A salwar kameez is three pieces: the kameez (the long tunic), the salwar (the trouser) and the dupatta (the scarf). Depending on what you buy, those three pieces are either finished, part-finished or still lengths of cloth.

That is what stitched, semi-stitched and unstitched mean. None of them is a guarantee of quality; they describe how much of the garment is already made.

A stitched suit arrives finished, in a standard size. You can put it on the day it arrives. This is the option to choose when you need something quickly, when the standard size is close to your measurements, or when you are buying for someone else and cannot get them measured.

The limitation is that the design is fixed: the length, neckline, sleeve style and trouser cut are what they are. If the bust or waist is a little off, a tailor can usually take it in — that is a small alteration and much less work than starting from fabric.

Check the bust measurement first, then waist and hip. Between two sizes, take the larger and have it taken in — letting out only goes as far as the seam allowance allows.

Semi-stitched is the middle option, and for most people it is the best one. The suit arrives partly constructed: the style is pre-built with a defined neck, sleeve style and sleeve length, neck depth and outfit length, and the side seams are typically left open so the kameez can be fitted to your bust.

That means a tailor finishes the fit rather than starting from scratch — quicker than unstitched, more adjustable than ready to wear, and the route we would suggest for most customers who want a good fit.

The catch is that the design decisions are already made. Neckline, sleeve style and length are set by the manufacturer, and the length of the kameez, trouser and sleeves can sometimes be changed, if the design permits. If you dislike the neckline of a semi-stitched suit, choosing a different piece is usually the honest answer rather than asking a tailor to rebuild it.

Unstitched means fabric only. It is typically a length for the kameez, a length for the salwar and a dupatta, uncut. Everything after that is a decision: kameez length, neckline, sleeve shape, trouser style, lining, and the fit itself.

Choose it when nothing ready-made fits properly, when you want a specific cut, or when the fabric is the point. It is also the slowest option: it needs a tailor and a fitting, and that time has to be in your plans.

If you are buying unstitched fabric to have made, take the measurements first — see below — because the tailor will need them anyway, and it is better to know before you choose the fabric whether you want a design that needs more or less of it.

Start with the date and work backwards. Then think about fit, and only then about the design.

Measure over light clothing, keep the tape level and snug, and write the numbers down in the unit you measured in. If someone can help you with the length and shoulder, better still.

1. 1

   Bust

   Around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms and straight across the back. Keep the tape parallel to the floor. If you are between two numbers, write down the larger one.

2. 2

   Waist

   Your natural waist — the narrowest part of your torso, usually just above the navel. Breathe out normally and do not pull your stomach in.

3. 3

   Hip

   Around the fullest part of your hips and seat, usually about 20 cm below the waist. This decides whether the kameez sits properly over the hip, so it is worth getting right.

4. 4

   Kameez length

   From the top of your shoulder beside the neck, straight down to where you want the hem to finish. If you own a kameez that falls exactly how you like it, measure that instead.

5. 5

   Sleeve length

   From the shoulder seam down to where you want the sleeve to end, with your arm slightly bent. For full sleeves, add a little ease at the elbow.

• The dupatta. Its width and length decide how it sits, and a narrow dupatta behaves completely differently from a wide one. If you have a particular drape in mind, mention it.
• The trouser cut. Churidar, palazzo, straight pyjama and cigarette trousers are different shapes, and each needs a different measurement at the knee and ankle. Decide the shape before fabric is cut.
• Lining. A lined kameez hangs differently and is more forgiving of a lighter fabric. Not every suit needs one; some do.
• The neckline and the dupatta together. A deep neckline that looks right on its own may be covered by the dupatta you plan to wear. Pin both at the fitting.
• Washing. Ask about washing before the fabric is cut. Some fabrics behave differently after a first wash, and once a suit is cut to a fabric that then shrinks, there is a problem.

We finish semi-stitched suits, cut and stitch unstitched fabric, and alter ready-to-wear pieces that are nearly right. If a size run does not fit you at all, made to measure is the other route — a full set of measurements taken here, and the garment cut to them.

The three routes are: buy stitched, buy semi-stitched and have it finished, or buy unstitched and have it made. Tell us the date you need it for when you come in — it changes which route we recommend, and it is the single most useful thing to tell us.